Si trebuie sa recunosc ca multitudinea monumentelor istorice, ce reflecta aproape toate stilurile arhitectonice, m-a impresionat. Dar toate aceste cladiri minunate se gasesc concentrate in mijlocul orasului, de-o parte si alta a Vltavei. Unele sunt renovate si frumos intretinute, fiindu-ti drag sa le privesti. Altele insa, poarta amprenta veacurilor. La fel se intampla si in periferie. In unele cartiere vezi vile noi,cu gradini frumos ingrijite sau case vechi restaurate, in timp ce la cativa metri distanta dai peste un bloc comunist, cu tencuiala gri scorojita.
Ma asteptam si sa ma ciocnesc cu mii de alti turisti, caci Praga e o destinatie accesibila atat pentru cei din Europa de Vest, cat si pentru noi, esticii, iar prezenta sa in patrimoniul UNESCO atrage o multime de vizitatori de pe alte continente. Ce m-a surprins insa a fost modul in care s-a schimbat orasul pentru a satisface absolut orice cerere a vizitatorilor. Transportul in comun ar putea fi imbunatatit si localnicii s-ar putea stradui sa invete un pic mai multa engleza. Dar aceste neajunsuri sunt trecute cu vederea de grupurile de straini veniti sa viziteze castele, turnuri si biserici, toate cu taxe de intrare maricele. Pentru o sedere cat mai placuta si interesanta, li se ofera zilnic spectacole de muzica clasica sau religioasa, in mai toate bisericile importante din oras. Daca vor sa viziteze muzee si s-au plictisit de locurile istorice ale orasului, nu-i problema. Aducem 10 tablouri de Dali si deschidem o expozitie. Facem un muzeu al ciocolatei belgiene. Plus un muzeu micut de tot al figurinelor de ceara.
Vor sa se plimbe? Perfect! Avem tururi tematice pentru orice le-ar putea trece prin cap, de la biserici la locuri bantuite de fantome, de la berarii la baruri de noapte. Contra cost, bineinteles! Vor shopping? Bani sa aiba, ca restul se rezolva. Nu le place cristalul de Boemia? Nici berea noastra? Se rezolva. Aducem colectii intregi de mastrioska, deschidem magazine Swarovski, vindem cea mai fina ciocolata belgiana, cea mai buna branza olandeza, cele mai delicate globuri pictate pentru pomul de Craciun...Orice! Inclusiv marijuana. Lipsesc fetele din vitrina, dar sunt o multime de afise si reclame pentru saloane de masaj, care banuiesc ca ofera si alte servicii.
Initial am fost revoltata de acest amalgam de lucruri si idei centrate doar pe profit. De aceea Praga mi s-a parut initial doar o capcana turistica. Dar pe masura ce avansam pe stradutele labirintice spre inima Orasului Vechi, mi-am dat seama ca acestea sunt doar mici artificii ce palesc in fata adevaratei frumuseti a acestui oras. Asa ca m-am indreptat spre Staromestska Radnice S Orlojem, un frumos complex gotic ce dateaza din secolul XIV si care atrage si astazi o multime de vizitatori, nu atat pentru rezistenta constructie, cat pentru orologiul astronomic . Din ora in ora, incepand cu 9 dimineata si terminand cu 9 seara, cei 12 apostoli se rotesc prin fata unor mici ferestre, vestind ora. Sus, in turn, gornistii se asigura ca toata piata a primit semnalul. Turnul este deschis zilnic, de la 11 la 22 lunea si de la 9 la 22 in restul saptamanii. In interior puteti admira mecanismul ceasului, va puteti fotografia in haine de cavaleri si domnite si va puteti bucura de una dintre cele mai frumoase privelisti asupra orasului. Biletul costa 100 de coroane (aproape 18 lei) pentru adulti si 50 de coroane (9 lei) pentru studenti si pensionari.
De sus, miile de turisti par a fi niste furnici grabite, ce misuna pe strazi. Chiar daca se mai gaseste cate unul si pe langa voi, ignorati-l si priviti in liniste orasul. Observati diferentele de culoare ale acoperisurilor. Analizati cladirile renovate asezate in mijlocul celor nerenovate sau invers. Numarati turlele bisericilor. Alegeti terasa la care planuiti sa mancati si sa beti o bere rece. Simtiti Praga, caci e un oras ce trebuie vizitat cu sufletul, nu cu mintea!
Stati pe aproape, caci urmeaza imagini si cuvinte de la Castel, de la gradina zoologica si nu in ultimul rand, mancare buna si bere rece.
Mi-a placut mult de tot Praga. Eu una n-am observat capcanele turistice de care vorbesti, poate eram prea preocupata sa alerg de la un obiectiv la altul, pentru ca tineam mortis sa le vad pe toate :-) Oricum ar fi, Praga e o bijuterie de oras...
ReplyDeleteAi descris foarte frumos Praga, una dintre capitalele mele europene preferate. Am fost de 4 ori la Praga si tot m-as mai duce...Dupa mine, bine fac ca sunt atat d einventivi in ale comertului. Asta aduce bani orasului, care poate astfel sa-si renoveze cladirile valoroase, sa-si ingrijeasca monumentele istorice...Parca prefer modul asta de management al orasului...
ReplyDeletePraga este o adevarata comoara turistica. Un singur lucru m-a dezamagit: cetatenii nu pre-a cunosc o limba straina majora ca engleza, franceza, germana si deci nu pot sa fie indeajuns de 'tourist friendly'.
ReplyDeleteCe frumos ai povestit! Iar poza aceea cu biserica pe fundal e minunata! Astept in continuare impresiile de la Castel ... etccc
ReplyDeleteEu am observat doar matrishka de care vorbeai si tu. Asta ma socat si pe mine, mai ales ca am vazut 2 magazine care numai asta vindeau. In momentul in care am privit in interior m-am simtit de parca pasisem in Rusia. Mai ales ca si pe pereti erau cateva afise in Rusa.
ReplyDeleteIn rest, Praga e de vis! Inca suspin.. M-am indragostit iremediabil de orasul asta. S-o spun pe aia dreapta, el cam iubeam orasul de dinainte sa ne cunoastem, dar acum dupa multi km pe jos, nopti pe stradutele luminate de ornamentele de Craciun, bere buna si hranitoare.. nu pot decat sa visez sa revin in Cehia!
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